![]() 4 itentical strips of artwork with the before mentioned details on it, dots, lines and open area. Move the card board over every minute and a half. Invest in an artwork with everything on it.a strip and duplicate that strip 4 times across the screen. It may require moving the light source to and from the image area on your 2nd screen. Don't put the light too close, because the closer you are the more exposure also. Also use different size lines like 1 point up to 10 points in size, this way you can determine if you're exposing properly for small details. Asphalt Emulsion Kit Model E 20 CAPACITIES to choose from 4 to 25 TPH INCLUDES Colloidal Mill Bitumen Pump + 3 Way automatic valve, Kerosene Pump & flowmeter, water pump +water flowmeter, 2 SS tank swith agitati. See if you can use different types of images, like a block, of course, a gradient of dots from small 10% to 100% open area for small detail. Right this time and distance down, so you don't have to waste screens doing it again. If you get results with less or more exposure time there will not be consistency in other screen exposures. You're looking for an exposure time of approximately 4-7 minutes. 3rd screen is a final adjustment for detail factors. The 1st is a basic setting (course adjustment providing you were too close with light or not close enough). YOu're not using controls so don't worry about a calibration strip. You can do just as the gentleman said with cardboard or something that will totally block the light. It can be accomplished manually, but this is highly sensitive to technique and takes much practice. The coating process requires specialized equipment designed specifically for screen printing. I am certainly not an expert on LED lights, but as far as I know they do not emit UV light at all. A light-sensitive emulsion (photopolymer) is applied to the screen once it is properly stretched. You say it is an LED light equivalent to a 450W - 500W incandescent light, but are you absolutely certain it can be used to burn a screen? Remember, emulsion reacts to UV light. This method does unfortunately waste a screen, but hopefully you have the equipment to re-coat it yourself. I washed out the screen to find which exposure time produced the cleanest result. Once the screen was fully covered by the cardboard, the test was complete. Since all liquid emulsion and emulsion sheets (capillary film) are light-sensitive, application should be done in a darkroom or under ultra-violet (U.V.) safe lights. ![]() Every 30 seconds, I would cover another inch of the emulsion by sliding the cardboard forward. Screen printing emulsion is a light-sensitive liquid substance that creates an ink-resistant border around your image. I then covered about an inch of the emulsion with the cardboard. I started by burning the whole screen for about 7 minutes. I have used a piece of thick cardboard in the past to test exposure time. You say you don't have a step wedge, but you don't really need one. The best way for you to find out is to test yourself. ![]() Burn time can depend on the type of emulsion, mesh count of the screen, exposure light, your film medium (transparency? paper & mineral oil? vellum?), and your exposure setup. There are far too many variables involved with burning the screen for anyone to give you an accurate answer. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |